The color:
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Here you can see what i mean by "plates" or "flakes" of gilding that have fallen off, and not worn off.RZM and Marker:
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I am not quite sure what the meaning behind this post is, but i`ll just leave it as: I disagree, can and have proved it many times in print, in articles and on a few forums, that everything you have said, is wrong.So, as I unfortunately can not make sharp macros with my camera, I've just ordered a macro lens. So you have to just wait until next week, then come good pictures!
Jo, I respect your opinion to pieces, but I think you're wrong here! That would M1 / 63 convert approximately 50% of all situated on the market as a fake. I've recently racked my brain how to most easily recognize a real badge. And I think I've found the solution. Each manufacturer has its own "Fngerabdruck" he used in each of his badge. When the shooting badge is the diamond, more precisely the area lies below the red enamel. Just a few millimeters wide field is covered with small knobs in a certain number and pattern. These patterns are carakteristisch for each manufacturer. Each uses a different! And so it is with the fakes. Modern fakes are not using the correct pattern! Exceptions are upgraded Badge (silver is gold) or from original parts compiled badge. I think you often need no microscope to reliably be able to recognize original badge. You just have to know the pattern of the manufacturer and can sometimes select whether to buy or not. We can do only us together and gather detailed images of a variety of badges of different manufacturers. Google Übersetzer (mein Englisch ist schlecht)
Does this sound surprising to you? Only 50% would be great if it was only as bad as that. I can give you an example of a badge that 100% of all of them offered by any dealer, anywhere, is fake. 100% not 50%, and they are offered every day, by dozens of dealers and authors.but I think you're wrong here! That would M1 / 63 convert approximately 50% of all situated on the market as a fake.