I know that Jo already mentioned that this is a fake, but I’ve tried to do my best to explain (in a few groups on FB) how to tell that it’s a reproduction.
Many collectors and dealers still claim that this is an original full maker marked HJ badge… some even claim that it’s a rare badge as well.
This is probably due to the combination of the type of attachment, the maker marking, and the general appearance of the badge at first glance.
But don’t get fooled and waste your money!
There are a lot of details that are not visible to the human eye on this and other reproductions. So, it’s necessary to get a bit of help from the collector’s best friend in this hobby… the microscope
If you don’t believe in microscopic examination, there is no need for you to read any further…
Okay! Let’s move on… First of all, you need to keep in mind that a lot of these “old” reproductions were manufactured back in the 1970s and 1980s, which means they are 50+ years old by now. A lot of things happen in half a century… fairs, traveling from country to country, shifting hands from collector to collector, and storage in collections or at dealers.
When you examine any TR enameled badge, you need to know and understand the process of manufacturing an original enameled badge in Germany 100 years ago and the materials used.
I will briefly explain how an original TR badge was manufactured. First of all, the die for the particular badge was engraved by a die master. The brass or iron planchet gets die-struck. First stage enameling and baking of the enamel. First polish of the enamel. Second stage enameling and baking. Final polish of the badge. Soldering on the attachment.
There are two very important and significant differences between an original die-struck glass enameled badge and a cast soft enameled reproduction. A die-struck badge is struck under enormous pressure, which means you get clean smooth edges, straight lines, and the detailed design from the die. A reproduction is cast in a mold and will always have uneven edges with signs of casting, rounded finishes on straight lines, and general “blurry” details. An original badge was made with glass enamel powder which was baked in an oven at high temperatures and then polished. The process of glass enameling required skills, the right equipment, and time, unlike the use of soft enameling used on reproductions. Soft enamel is a paste and it’s applied on the cast reproduction and then air-dried at low temperature or baked in an oven at low temperature. There is a huge difference between the final result of an original glass enameled badge and a soft enameled reproduction. It’s impossible to achieve the shiny glassy look using soft enamel. Soft enamel has a “pale” appearance, is often unevenly applied, and has tiny fracture lines when it’s dried.
I obviously never bought the badge in question because I know it’s a reproduction, but my good friend Jimmy examined the badge years ago and made these microscopic images I use in the post.
As you can see in the first image, the reproduction has a rough beveled edge! As you know by now, an original die-struck badge always has a smooth even edge. It’s impossible to make a beveled edge on a die-struck badge. So this fact already tells you that it’s a cast reproduction.
In the second and third images, you can see the rounded tips on the sunrays. An original badge has nice straight sunrays. Furthermore, you can see the thin fracture lines on the soft enamel and general signs of casting.
In the fourth and fifth images, we take a closer look at the soft enamel. As you can see, the soft enamel has been unevenly and insufficiently applied. Once again, you see loads of signs of casting.
Finally, let’s take a (microscopic) look at the maker marking. In the final seventh and eighth images, you can see the rounded tips on the lettering of the maker marking. As mentioned earlier in the post, you already know what that means…
This turned out to be a much longer post than I expected, but there is a lot of information and knowledge which can be applied to any original die-struck glass enameled badge or cast soft enameled reproduction.
Credits to our very own member Jimmy72 for the microscopic images.
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Many collectors and dealers still claim that this is an original full maker marked HJ badge… some even claim that it’s a rare badge as well.
This is probably due to the combination of the type of attachment, the maker marking, and the general appearance of the badge at first glance.
But don’t get fooled and waste your money!
There are a lot of details that are not visible to the human eye on this and other reproductions. So, it’s necessary to get a bit of help from the collector’s best friend in this hobby… the microscope
If you don’t believe in microscopic examination, there is no need for you to read any further…
Okay! Let’s move on… First of all, you need to keep in mind that a lot of these “old” reproductions were manufactured back in the 1970s and 1980s, which means they are 50+ years old by now. A lot of things happen in half a century… fairs, traveling from country to country, shifting hands from collector to collector, and storage in collections or at dealers.
When you examine any TR enameled badge, you need to know and understand the process of manufacturing an original enameled badge in Germany 100 years ago and the materials used.
I will briefly explain how an original TR badge was manufactured. First of all, the die for the particular badge was engraved by a die master. The brass or iron planchet gets die-struck. First stage enameling and baking of the enamel. First polish of the enamel. Second stage enameling and baking. Final polish of the badge. Soldering on the attachment.
There are two very important and significant differences between an original die-struck glass enameled badge and a cast soft enameled reproduction. A die-struck badge is struck under enormous pressure, which means you get clean smooth edges, straight lines, and the detailed design from the die. A reproduction is cast in a mold and will always have uneven edges with signs of casting, rounded finishes on straight lines, and general “blurry” details. An original badge was made with glass enamel powder which was baked in an oven at high temperatures and then polished. The process of glass enameling required skills, the right equipment, and time, unlike the use of soft enameling used on reproductions. Soft enamel is a paste and it’s applied on the cast reproduction and then air-dried at low temperature or baked in an oven at low temperature. There is a huge difference between the final result of an original glass enameled badge and a soft enameled reproduction. It’s impossible to achieve the shiny glassy look using soft enamel. Soft enamel has a “pale” appearance, is often unevenly applied, and has tiny fracture lines when it’s dried.
I obviously never bought the badge in question because I know it’s a reproduction, but my good friend Jimmy examined the badge years ago and made these microscopic images I use in the post.
As you can see in the first image, the reproduction has a rough beveled edge! As you know by now, an original die-struck badge always has a smooth even edge. It’s impossible to make a beveled edge on a die-struck badge. So this fact already tells you that it’s a cast reproduction.
You don't have permission to view attachments.
In the second and third images, you can see the rounded tips on the sunrays. An original badge has nice straight sunrays. Furthermore, you can see the thin fracture lines on the soft enamel and general signs of casting.
You don't have permission to view attachments.
You don't have permission to view attachments.
In the fourth and fifth images, we take a closer look at the soft enamel. As you can see, the soft enamel has been unevenly and insufficiently applied. Once again, you see loads of signs of casting.
You don't have permission to view attachments.
You don't have permission to view attachments.
Finally, let’s take a (microscopic) look at the maker marking. In the final seventh and eighth images, you can see the rounded tips on the lettering of the maker marking. As mentioned earlier in the post, you already know what that means…
You don't have permission to view attachments.
You don't have permission to view attachments.
This turned out to be a much longer post than I expected, but there is a lot of information and knowledge which can be applied to any original die-struck glass enameled badge or cast soft enameled reproduction.
Credits to our very own member Jimmy72 for the microscopic images.
